Whitby's dramatic position where the River Esk meets the North Sea has shaped centuries of maritime history, from Captain Cook's apprenticeship to the whaling fleet that once sailed from here. The ruined abbey on the East Cliff inspired Bram Stoker's Dracula, while 199 steps climb from the harbour to the clifftop church. The old town's narrow streets and yards are filled with jet jewellery shops, fish and chip restaurants, and traditional pubs. Whitby remains a working fishing port famous for its kippers, crab, and twice-yearly Goth Weekend.